Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Cleaning of Natham Temple at ECR near Kalpakkam
When we got a call from the Shri. Srinivasan of Vadapalani Temple Cleaners Group, (Hindu Aalayangal Sutham Seyyum Narpani Mandram), saying that their cleaning to be done at Parameswarimangalam near Seyyur on ECR Road 
treasure trove for archealogical lovers, we were wondering whether it was an understatement! This place is some 8 kms from Kalpakkam. So, member Chandrasekaran called upon Deepika and archeology student and Mr. Raveen, the Zoology Professor of Thambaram Christian College
The latest addition to this episode:
treasure trove for archealogical lovers, we were wondering whether it was an understatement! This place is some 8 kms from Kalpakkam. So, member Chandrasekaran called upon Deepika and archeology student and Mr. Raveen, the Zoology Professor of Trustee member P.N. Subramaniam, as usual, was the first one to visit along. Entering Parameswarimangalam@ Natham through the non-descript road which takes a right turn from the main ECR road, opposite the road to Kadalur (not the other Kadalur; this is a hamlet near the shore with similar name) and asking several passers-by made us think otherwise, but on reaching the temple site and having a glance at its grandeur and the size of the land around, made us feel very pathetic of its current state. A towering vimana, stone made mandap with sanctum sanctorum, engraved with full of inscriptions inside-out, at sides, on path walks, pillars, the front mandapa etc. 
The dwara palakas, among whom one has fallen down, due to nature empowering their stature, the broken sinha (lion) bedded pillar which has the rarest of pallava grantha inscriptions, all made our head reel for a while.
The dwara palakas, among whom one has fallen down, due to nature empowering their stature, the broken sinha (lion) bedded pillar which has the rarest of pallava grantha inscriptions, all made our head reel for a while.The Nandi, stark in contrast by size and colour was facing the opposite side and not towards the lingam. The icon stood out against passage of time and so were the sculptures inside the sanctum sanctorum. The bronze icons some 30 in numbers, were all exposed without much of safety. The priests, who are doing pooja here for generations, lamented the situation and requested that at least the bronzes be kept under safe custody, by making grilled gate safe with lock and key.
During the Muslim invasion in yester years, this temple was targeted in particular as it was parallel in size as that of the Thirukazhukundram temple in the nearby region.
No wonder all the sculptures are broken, the pillars and stones from walls are pulled out and few have made way to build a mosque at a nearby place. Crossing a paddy filed nearby, the villagers showed us how the pillars and stones with inscriptions are used in the mosque. A Persian writing has been written across and some new interest has made some of the local Muslims start over again rebuilding this 500-year-old open mosque again. The villagers are not claiming the pillars and stones back to the temple fearing antagonizing their brethren, even though there are hardly few Muslim families within the village. The local Muslims can at least return back the stones and pillars which bear the inscriptions, as they are the proof of historical evidences of what this place was and the temple was in those days! See photos
The series of stone inscriptions from the base starts with Pallava Grantham, earlier inscriptions and above which periodically Kings have updated their contribution one after the other, till the later Cholas of this region. If only an epigraphist student comes down to write down all the inscriptions here, they would end up spending at least some 3 months to decipher and complete the project! And eventually they’ll master epigraphy, as all samples are very much within the same premises!!
The statues inside are also unique. The Devi, Parvathi worships Shiva in Lakshmi form, bearing lotuses in both hands! The weapons usually found in Parvathi’s hands are missing.
During the Muslim invasion in yester years, this temple was targeted in particular as it was parallel in size as that of the Thirukazhukundram temple in the nearby region.
No wonder all the sculptures are broken, the pillars and stones from walls are pulled out and few have made way to build a mosque at a nearby place. Crossing a paddy filed nearby, the villagers showed us how the pillars and stones with inscriptions are used in the mosque. A Persian writing has been written across and some new interest has made some of the local Muslims start over again rebuilding this 500-year-old open mosque again. The villagers are not claiming the pillars and stones back to the temple fearing antagonizing their brethren, even though there are hardly few Muslim families within the village. The local Muslims can at least return back the stones and pillars which bear the inscriptions, as they are the proof of historical evidences of what this place was and the temple was in those days! See photosThe series of stone inscriptions from the base starts with Pallava Grantham, earlier inscriptions and above which periodically Kings have updated their contribution one after the other, till the later Cholas of this region. If only an epigraphist student comes down to write down all the inscriptions here, they would end up spending at least some 3 months to decipher and complete the project! And eventually they’ll master epigraphy, as all samples are very much within the same premises!!
The statues inside are also unique. The Devi, Parvathi worships Shiva in Lakshmi form, bearing lotuses in both hands! The weapons usually found in Parvathi’s hands are missing.
The legend goes like this:
As Parvathi took Lakshmi roopam (form), Shiva advised her to worship Vishnu and was turning away from Parvathi and was walking facing the East, towards the coast. As the mercury levels rose, Shiva got thirsty. A 5-headed serpent appeared from nowhere and gave shade to Shiva’s head, as an Umbrella, and a cow gave here milk to quench the thirst of the Lord. This milk started oozing out and started running like water, and so the name of the adjacent river, Paalaar (Paal in Tamil- milk).
There are seven lingams surrounding the sanctum sanctorum. When we visited, few were found missing, and few covered by Thorns and bushes. The members cleared away and thorns and put many a lingam, back to position. The seven lingams are: Kailasanathar, Sampakeswarar (As this place was once a forest full of Sampaka Flowers and trees), Arunachaleswarar, Jagadeeswarar, Ekambaranathar, Valmika nathar, Vyakra Padeswarar. See photos
Statues around the ‘Goshtams’ are also 7 unlike 5 in many places. Facing South we could see Biktchadanar, Vinayaka, Dakshinamurthi and facing West we see Lingothbhava. Facing North are Brahma, Durga and very rare, Hari-Hara statue, where both Shivan and Vishnu are in form merged form! So, saptha lingams and saptha gostams, for us to see! See photos
The Murugan Statue here is also unique, devoid of arms. He carries Brahma’s items, the Atshara Malai and kamandalam. (Gindi Kaksha Subrahmanyam). This was when Muruga asked the meaning of Pranava Mantra to Brahma. Brahma could not answer young Karthikeya @ Murugan. Getting angry, Muruga imprisoned Brahma and took the task of Creation.
Other statues to be noted are the Rama, Lakshmana , Sita statues made of single stone, the Shaivaite saints Sambandar and Sundarar as well as Bhairava, Surya, Sani and Anjaneya.
The festivals conducted here are Pancha murthi Abhishekam during the Tamil month of Chitrai Poornima day, as well as the wedding function of Soundarya Nayaki and Sambakeswara, In month of Avani, Vinayak Chaturthi, in Purattasi Navarathri and Karthika Somavaaram, (4 Mondays of the month of Oct-Nov) The arudra darshan in the month of Margazi, and Sivarathri in them month of Masi. Regular monthly Pradosha Poojas are conducted. The local priests who are working here for generations, lament that the HR & CE department hardly cares for the repair and maintenance of this temple as well as do not take steps to get their due of rice or cash which the temple land leasees need to give back to the temple every year. Renovating this beautiful historically important temple would need nothing less than 20 lakhs and the statues and inscriptions scattered around can be properly collected and gathered in the front mandapa. The front mandapa is also in the verge of collapse. The facades of the mandapas are lying strewn all around the Mosque near by. The Hindu Aalayangal Suththam seyyum Narpani Mandram members were really energetic and skilful. While a few trained youngsters with ropes tied on their waist sprung to action, climbing on the tower, cleaning and applying yellow lime plaster along, the kids around tried their might to remove thorns and grasses using sickle! The older ladies were busy cleaning the utensils, brass lamps and pooja vessels and the younger ones busy cooking food for all volunteers and making garlands for the deity. Not to be left behind, some eager members pulled out all thorny trees and bailed out the missing lingams! Few muscled men even erected the strewn idols straight back to their position. See photos
The I.T guys were not left behind. From TCS, under the reference of our REACH member Guruvelevan, some eight members had come their and were sparing their best efforts in handling sickles and crowbars, not fearing the after effect of back pains, as they are the ones who are handling mostly the soft mouse and key board buttons! See photos
The Government should have a separate body to encourage and fund such NGOs who are interested in restoring heritage structures and temples. The HR & CE or the State Archaeology department, or for that reason the Tourism Department can come together to encourage this type of activity and to give funds to such groups who get themselves involved in such noble act of preserving our heritage. Student Deepika lamented that at least some 50 to 60 graduates who had done Archaeology course and job less. Why can’t the Government agencies involve them along with NGOs like R.E.A.C.H and pay them some decent stipend to enable them undertake the data collection of such heritage buildings, working on estemblage of inscriptions, conservation work, etc.? See photos
The latest addition to this episode:
Flash News - 02nd Dec,2007
Member trustee P.N.S again took his friends Rao (who is a contractor at nearby Kalpakkam Power Plant) and Seyyur Karthik, the Rotary President and also son-of the soil(!) a leading builder to show them this temple. Mr.Karthik had assured that he will see if he can adopt the village for prosperity and also see if a grill gate can be provided to protect the Panchalokas!
Labels: heritage conservation, temples revival, uzhavarappani
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Kundrathur Valeeswarar Temple Cleaning and restoration -II
On 4th November Sunday, we were determined to re-look the Kundrathur Valeeswarar temple, determined to see to that our cleaning work doesn't go waste. We went back to clean in spite of heavy rain. A JCB was put in force and braving cold and rain, some snakes, a band of young volunteers lead by Mr. Muthumani cleaned the whole premises.We vowed not to go to any other temple for cleaning until or unless we complete the construction of this temple is complete. See in the right side the temple before and after removing trees!
Again, last Sunday,11th Nov- we had excellent progress. Estimation by Mr. Kanniappan from ASI, inscription estampage and deciphering by retired State Archeology epigrahist Mr. Krishnamurthy assisted amply by applicator Murugesan and member Chandra and some young boys from the volunteering group, Tree killer chemical application by Chandrasekaran on the 2 trees at the very place where the Shivalingam should come, as well as
further land levelling and cleaning done by Muthumani's young band of volunteers - all went in ONE GO!Plus member Ashok gave jobs to two poor people there, one girl Ms.Bhuvaneswari, who is about to complete her M.Phil in Biotechnology but
not getting a good job in her field and another man
Shekhar who's family is now maintaining the make shift temple. He was given the office attender job while Bhuvaneswari will join as coordinator in Mr. Ashok's Corel draw Academy. So, a whole- some day where progresses in
all front happened due to the
grace of the deity Valeeswarar who is now blessing us to complete this project in full swing! Bhuvaneswari, her 4 sisters and widow mother who have their hut just opposite to the temple premises have agreed to maintain a garden which we would be bringing up within the temple land.
The next agenda is on the ground to avoid further growth of plants and weeds. Both are estimated to cost nothing less than Rs.1,00,000.00. Well wishers please talk to builders, construction line philanthropists to donate in kind or to fence the whole place and to lay sand cash, or material. The photos are loaded in our yahoo group's (temple_cleaners) photo files, as well.
Reach us at reach.foundation.india@gmail.com
Labels: heritage conservation, temple cleaning, temples revival, uzhavarappani
Friday, November 02, 2007
Cleaning activity at Paappanchatram, near Chennai
It was raining non-stop albeit not heavy but quite continuous. Weather forecasters warned of cyclonic depression in the 
This man, the Shivacharyar is the lone ranger, bearing the torch of devout pooja in both the temples. Even though he has Kattalai (Hereditary right) in the Kanchi Ekambareswarar temple, this priest, has stayed back to see this temple have at least pooja once in a day for both the deities. He has some source for income, through the nearby factories, as they call him for pujas, his sons too assisting him in this endeavour. But then, why should we feel sorry for this temple? The reason is obvious. Kanchi Paramacharya, Shri. Mahaperiyava had stayed in this temple for 2 or more months often praying to both the deities,
Children were resting in the priest’s house, reciting slokas and Thevaram Hymns, taught by a self taught teacher, few women were preparing food and few shared their might in cleaning the sanctum sanctorums with broom and brush, as few more cleaned the brass vessels meant for pooja. The men showed their best prowess and strength by chopping of the trees and clearing the bushes. 
By
The battle between rain and men was finally won by these devout men who finally made both the premises clean.
The story of how this twin temple was built goes like this:
They heard the Almighty’s voice to build their favourite temple there, in this same spot! Remembering the Kasi sage’s words, the brothers immediately called the villagers, narrated their story and took permission to build the temples there. Both were affluent and wealthy. So, they switched their permanence from Othadi to Paapaanchatiram. This happened in the year 1802! The stone inscription is an evidence to this event, which says in details the lands donated for this templeand also curses those who if they usurp the Lord's property, would have the sin equivalent to that of killing 1000 brahmins and 1000 cows at Kasi, on the banks fo Kaveri. Are the land encroachers and usurpers listening to these curses?
Even though the elder brother didn’t have a sibling, the younger one, Venkatasubbaramayyar had siblings and the generation flourished.
The Shiva shrine has the Kasi Viswanatha Lingam, Visalakshmi Amman, Adi Sankara as deities and the Krishna Temple boasts of a beautiful Krishna, playing flute with Rukmini and Satyabama on either side. Another Goverdhan Krishna, Ramanujar Shrines are also within the mandap. The priest has added few years before the Navagraha Sannidhi, after the Paramacharya's visit.
These Navagrahas are also rare, with all adhipathi (lord) posing with their wives and consorts (vahanam)!!
Lands pertaining to this temple were registered in 1864 in 
Till date, except the good local E.O who belongs to HR &CE department (good as he does not object to any repairs and work at this site, that’s all!!!) and some local countable good Samaritans, the temple premises continues to lie uncared, and it has become an annual ritual that any of the few Uzhavarapani groups (temple cleaning groups) identify this temple ND DO SOME CLEANING. This time, when the above mentioned devout “Aalayam Suttham seyyum Uzhavarapani mandram” (of Vadapalani) leaders called us to be with them while the cleaning goes on, we took a vow to see to that the repairs are undertaken and pujas continue.
As it was raining we could not use our wonder tree killing chemicals on them, as water would dilute the killing effect. We are planning to go on a sunny day and kill the trees which are collapsing the walls of the sanctum sanctorums.
This volunteer group goes to such places in a open lorry (big wagon which can carry 100 persons standing) and all hail from worker class and middle class families. Even though they may not have heavy purses to throw around donations to build temples, the ground work they do to clean the temple is a hard task and a great work of sweat and devotion. It was really a great site to see them work relentlessly braving the chillness and the rain. REACH supports all such groups and are in constant touch with them. We have already procured the tree killer chemicals in bulk, sickles, ploughs and knifes to cut bushes, trees etc. to enable distribute these among all such groups, whenever they need and also inspire the locals to decide to rebuild the temple which gets cleaned.
Labels: heritage conservation, temples revival, uzhavarappani
Thursday, August 09, 2007
Symposium for "Heritage Wardens" conducted
The one-day symposium conducted by R.E.A.C.H FOUNDATION on 05th August 2007, for the “Heritage Wardens” (Temple Cleaners @ Uzhavarapani Groups in Tamil),at the Tattvãloka Auditorium at Eldams Road, Teynampet, had an overwhelming representation and response, that people from far flung places like Thiruchendur, Thiruvannamalai, Tranquebar @ Tharangambadi, Kumbakonam, had come for this occasion.
First and foremost, a word about the hall.
It symbolized more like a sanctum sanctorum of the Holiness. Jagadguru Shringeri Swamigal. This hall is run and maintained by the Shringeri Mutt. The cleanliness, their code of conduct (like removing and keeping foot wear only at the racks provided at the basement of the hall, where car parking also exists, switching of mobiles, not allowing food into the auditorium) was appreciated by many. The hall’s ambience was perfect, clean and compact. The seating, sound system and the provision for projection of PowerPoint presentations, all provided by this auditorium are commendable. No dangling wires, open tapes or bad patches anywhere! Also the interior done is at its best, making the whole atmosphere serene.
We need to mention a special thanks to Shri. T.R.Ramachandran for allowing us to use this auditorium free of cost and his team members who were well harmonized to carry forward the proceedings without any hiccups.
The programme started bit late than usual, as audience came in slowly. First the Kuthuvilakku (Traditional Oil Lamp made of Panchaloga) was lit by our Chief Guest Kalaimamani, Silai Meetta Semmal Shri. Dr. R.Nagaswamy, the pioneer in Archaeology who has many credits to his name, and the former Director of Tamilnadu State Archaeology. This was followed by lighting of the lamp, by T.S.Sridhar IAS, who is the secretary of Tamil Nadu Tourism Department, and then by Shri. Ramachandran the Trustee of Tattvãloka, Dr. T. Satyamurthy, the founder trustee of REACH FOUNDATION.
As it was the “Sani Peyarchi”, many quoted that as a reason for not attending this function. If only they had come across the hymns in Tamil which starts, as “ naal en seyyum , Kol en seyyum,” (meaning, the days, stars, or planets cannot do anything adverse to one, who holds the feet of Lord Muruga) as well as the one from KolaRu Thirupadigam, “ Gnaayiru, Thingal, Sevvai…(meaning, all these seven days are alike, when we only think of Lord Shiva). With these verses the compere Shri. Chandrasekaran started off the programme.
The first programme of the agenda was singing of the invocation and welcome song written by Kavi Yogi Shuddhanandha Bharti, by Shri. Sargurunadan, the Oduvar of Mylai Temple. His sweet voice rendered the song with such a strong flow and vibration, which set the tempo to the remaining part of the day. The Founder Trustee honoured him with a shawl.
Then came to Welcome Address by the founder Dr.T.Sathyamurthy.
He said that after the inauguration of the web site www.conserveheritage.org as well as the on-line course for reading inscriptions launched by The Governor on 16th June, 2007, he was almost certain that this programme for the heritage wardens also should be conducted to achieve what REACH aims for. Many Government sanctions were made available for rebuilding heritage sites, but the problem was that, none had the right database which tells us about the number of temples which are in ruins, their location, the estimated funds requirement, etc. So, the main objective of this function was to collect database of temples, which needs attention.
He also stressed the need to have a common knowledge centre, to impart technical know how to all the rural folk who want to rebuild heritage sites/ temples. He lamented the use of cement at least for the vimana, which can be spared. He insisted that vimana made of traditional material like limestone at least doesn’t damage the Shiva lingam if it collapses, whereas the cement domes form a solid mass and falls straight to knock off the Deity itself!
He wanted all the district level pioneers doing temple cleaning to start the branches of REACH in their respective places, to spread the knowledge base.
Then spoke Shri. T.S Sridhar, IAS, who was very lavish in his praising the efforts of REACH.
He said that unless the private-public partnership doesn’t happen, the lost temples couldn’t be brought back to glory. He said that not only Kerala is God’s own country, but also whole of India, is really God’s own country. He was inviting proposals from all public to recommend sites of tourist interest. He wanted the sites to be kept clean.
Shri. T.R. Ramachandran who was at the dais as the trustee of Tattvãloka, said that he was really happy to know that their auditorium was put to use for such great causes. He lauded and remembered the work of the Chief Guest, Shri. R.Nagaswamy, as he had contributed articles about temples, temple architecture, stone inscriptions, iconography, murals of Indian temples etc, as articles to their magazine, Tattvãloka, from Mumbai, for almost 7 full years! He said that he was happy to see his friend after a long time in the same dais.
To represent the Uzhavarapani groups, Shri. Komal V.Sekar addressed the gathering.
His real life experiences of being an ordinary man to become a man possessed to undertake the daunting task of rebuilding temples, his narratives and hardships, made the audience experience the journey as he tread in the past. He said that ignorance, being the key; many people depended on Sthapathis who were quacks and did not do justice to their work, nor recommend the right material which should be used for. He said he had seen before his eyes, Vimanams made of cement falling and damaging the deity. He also wanted to bring to attention the plight of the archakas who are living in great hardship, as the Government is turning a blind eye towards them. He suggested a novel model, of having common accounts like Shiva temples, account, Vishnu temple accounts, Amman temple accounts, so that all temple money got pooled to one account, thereby, the salaries and other maintenance expenses can be equally distributed to all temples, any given time.
Trustee H Chandrashekhar lauded the work of the foundation and said that he was happy to get associated with this noble cause.
Trustee Shri. Hariharan recalled his earlier days, when he was asked by the Maha periyava, the senior pontiff of Kanchi, Shri. Chandrasekarendra Saraswathi, to build a small temple for a Shiva Lingam at a roadside at Kanchi. Without uttering a word, he did that. Later when his father was stopped from being admitted to Cancer hospital, and was saved for next six years without a hitch, Hariharan said, he knew what divine power was, and to his surprise the Kanchi Maha Periyava named the Shiva Lingam as “Brahmanya Lingam”, his father name being Subramanian! He also remembered the old days, when he found only divine intervention made him take efforts to rebuild the Madipakkam Shiva temple. So, as a trustee, he said it was the divine call, even though he knew less of history, which got associated with REACH, to rebuild temples.
The highlight of the day was the effortless and eloquent address by Shri. Kalaimamani Dr. R.Nagaswamy.
A doyen in archaeology, the man who brought out more Stone inscriptions, one who restored the Thirumalai Nayak Place in Madurai, the Thiruvannamalai temple to name a few, and the one who is called as “Silai Meetta Semmal” (the man who brought back our statues). The reason for the last adage is that, it was Dr. R.Nagaswamy, arguing in the London court to get back some stolen idols (Shiva puram if the writer remembers correctly). The judge who heard the argument hailed his deep knowledge in the subject and ordered immediate return of the statues to the Indian Government.
He said that unless the awareness of retaining the culture comes from within, we couldn’t restore heritage. He quoted an example of a rare vimana, he saw in Kumbakonam, where in the renovators were hells bent on finishing the carved brick made one, with cement. He pleaded with them to leave it as it is, as that would be the rarest of vimana where carving was done on bricks. But the damage was done. He quoted that in Burma, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, Indonesia, Vietnam, Lanka, Singapore and Malaysia, and even in far off Greece, Hindu culture prevailed and was nurtured. He quoted seeing a Coin of Greek King Agathocleus which was some 2700 years old, having the Greece king’s name on one side, but also having Lord Krishna’s image on one side and that of Balarama’s on the other side!
He also condemned the use of cement for patching up between stone inscriptions and walls. This was not needed as well as was spoiling the legibility of the inscriptions.
His PowerPoint presentation showed how he restored the Danish Fort in Tharangambadi, and how the new administrators of the fort had built new buildings near by the old ones. Also a water tank for Tsunami victims was built too close to the ancient Fort site. He said, any vibrations or digging in the vicinity of an ancient site, would damage the heritage building and such acts should be condemned and banned. The main focus was the uncared Masilamani Nathar Temple at Tharangambadi (Tranquebar). In spite of this ancient temple, being a rarest Shiva Temple in seashore, Government apathy and negligence had totally shattered this temple. The bund wall built to protect the nearby Fort also funneled the seawater to throw itself on the temple. Tsunami accelerated the problem and now the whole temple made of granite stone lies shattered. Shabby patch up work done by PWD, not withstanding, he called the experts to join hands in restoring this temple. A representative of Tharangambadi had come to the function and he agreed to the point that a joint committee of experts only can solve and rebuild the temple, and not simple civil departments of the Government
The climax of the day was the powerful PowerPoint of Shri. P.S. Sriraman, the ASI man, from Madras Museum. He was one of the key men who digitized and documented the fresco paintings in the Tanjore Brahadeeswara Temple, during the tenure of Dr.T.Sathyamurthy as the Chief in ASI.
He started the presentation by showing few ruined temples like those seen in Brahmadesam, Brahadesswara Temple in Tanjore as well as in Gangai Konda Cholapuram and the after effect of rebuilding, by using slides “Before” and “After”. This got a round of applause. He meticulously explained what one should not do:
Not to throw away the stones and bricks lying around,
Not to remove idols,
Not to allow plant and creepers grow,
Not to use acrylic paint or cement, etc.
He said using brain one could utilize 90% of the ruin material and re-use them to rebuild the temple. This needs careful planning and sorting of the available materials. He said more of public participation is necessary to restore temples as Government is always short of funds and skilled manpower. He quoted the example of Manjunatha Dharamasthala Temple Renovation Trust, which has a well-planned public-private participation. After identifying a temple, the get drawings and estimation made, get the written agreement of the locals allowing the trust to take over the temple site, visit frequently the site to inspect the work-in-progress and thereby see to that the temple is restored in the right manner with a transparent system prevailing throughout. Now the Karnataka Government had started giving their identified heritage sites to the Dharamasthala Trust for restoration!
He said REACH FOUNDATION is ready to give technical expertise to create plans, drawings, estimates, ideas to renovate the right way; what is needed is the public participation in collecting funds, or materials, use them in the righteous manner to enable the restored heritage temple be good for the next 1000 years!
The programme ended with the national anthem followed by a simple but tasty lunch comprising Sugar Pongal, Sambar Rice, Pappad and Curd Rice.
REACH FOUNDATION is planning to conduct such seminars and symposiums in each district, and create an awareness campaign among rural public. If the might of public support and the skill of these archaeologists join together, we are sure most temples will get restored and a renaissance of our Dharma will soon emerge.
First and foremost, a word about the hall.
It symbolized more like a sanctum sanctorum of the Holiness. Jagadguru Shringeri Swamigal. This hall is run and maintained by the Shringeri Mutt. The cleanliness, their code of conduct (like removing and keeping foot wear only at the racks provided at the basement of the hall, where car parking also exists, switching of mobiles, not allowing food into the auditorium) was appreciated by many. The hall’s ambience was perfect, clean and compact. The seating, sound system and the provision for projection of PowerPoint presentations, all provided by this auditorium are commendable. No dangling wires, open tapes or bad patches anywhere! Also the interior done is at its best, making the whole atmosphere serene.We need to mention a special thanks to Shri. T.R.Ramachandran for allowing us to use this auditorium free of cost and his team members who were well harmonized to carry forward the proceedings without any hiccups.
The programme started bit late than usual, as audience came in slowly. First the Kuthuvilakku (Traditional Oil Lamp made of Panchaloga) was lit by our Chief Guest Kalaimamani, Silai Meetta Semmal Shri. Dr. R.Nagaswamy, the pioneer in Archaeology who has many credits to his name, and the former Director of Tamilnadu State Archaeology. This was followed by lighting of the lamp, by T.S.Sridhar IAS, who is the secretary of Tamil Nadu Tourism Department, and then by Shri. Ramachandran the Trustee of Tattvãloka, Dr. T. Satyamurthy, the founder trustee of REACH FOUNDATION.
As it was the “Sani Peyarchi”, many quoted that as a reason for not attending this function. If only they had come across the hymns in Tamil which starts, as “ naal en seyyum , Kol en seyyum,” (meaning, the days, stars, or planets cannot do anything adverse to one, who holds the feet of Lord Muruga) as well as the one from KolaRu Thirupadigam, “ Gnaayiru, Thingal, Sevvai…(meaning, all these seven days are alike, when we only think of Lord Shiva). With these verses the compere Shri. Chandrasekaran started off the programme.
The first programme of the agenda was singing of the invocation and welcome song written by Kavi Yogi Shuddhanandha Bharti, by Shri. Sargurunadan, the Oduvar of Mylai Temple. His sweet voice rendered the song with such a strong flow and vibration, which set the tempo to the remaining part of the day. The Founder Trustee honoured him with a shawl.
Then came to Welcome Address by the founder Dr.T.Sathyamurthy.
He said that after the inauguration of the web site www.conserveheritage.org as well as the on-line course for reading inscriptions launched by The Governor on 16th June, 2007, he was almost certain that this programme for the heritage wardens also should be conducted to achieve what REACH aims for. Many Government sanctions were made available for rebuilding heritage sites, but the problem was that, none had the right database which tells us about the number of temples which are in ruins, their location, the estimated funds requirement, etc. So, the main objective of this function was to collect database of temples, which needs attention.He also stressed the need to have a common knowledge centre, to impart technical know how to all the rural folk who want to rebuild heritage sites/ temples. He lamented the use of cement at least for the vimana, which can be spared. He insisted that vimana made of traditional material like limestone at least doesn’t damage the Shiva lingam if it collapses, whereas the cement domes form a solid mass and falls straight to knock off the Deity itself!
He wanted all the district level pioneers doing temple cleaning to start the branches of REACH in their respective places, to spread the knowledge base.
Then spoke Shri. T.S Sridhar, IAS, who was very lavish in his praising the efforts of REACH.
He said that unless the private-public partnership doesn’t happen, the lost temples couldn’t be brought back to glory. He said that not only Kerala is God’s own country, but also whole of India, is really God’s own country. He was inviting proposals from all public to recommend sites of tourist interest. He wanted the sites to be kept clean.Shri. T.R. Ramachandran who was at the dais as the trustee of Tattvãloka, said that he was really happy to know that their auditorium was put to use for such great causes. He lauded and remembered the work of the Chief Guest, Shri. R.Nagaswamy, as he had contributed articles about temples, temple architecture, stone inscriptions, iconography, murals of Indian temples etc, as articles to their magazine, Tattvãloka, from Mumbai, for almost 7 full years! He said that he was happy to see his friend after a long time in the same dais.
To represent the Uzhavarapani groups, Shri. Komal V.Sekar addressed the gathering.
His real life experiences of being an ordinary man to become a man possessed to undertake the daunting task of rebuilding temples, his narratives and hardships, made the audience experience the journey as he tread in the past. He said that ignorance, being the key; many people depended on Sthapathis who were quacks and did not do justice to their work, nor recommend the right material which should be used for. He said he had seen before his eyes, Vimanams made of cement falling and damaging the deity. He also wanted to bring to attention the plight of the archakas who are living in great hardship, as the Government is turning a blind eye towards them. He suggested a novel model, of having common accounts like Shiva temples, account, Vishnu temple accounts, Amman temple accounts, so that all temple money got pooled to one account, thereby, the salaries and other maintenance expenses can be equally distributed to all temples, any given time.Trustee H Chandrashekhar lauded the work of the foundation and said that he was happy to get associated with this noble cause.
Trustee Shri. Hariharan recalled his earlier days, when he was asked by the Maha periyava, the senior pontiff of Kanchi, Shri. Chandrasekarendra Saraswathi, to build a small temple for a Shiva Lingam at a roadside at Kanchi. Without uttering a word, he did that. Later when his father was stopped from being admitted to Cancer hospital, and was saved for next six years without a hitch, Hariharan said, he knew what divine power was, and to his surprise the Kanchi Maha Periyava named the Shiva Lingam as “Brahmanya Lingam”, his father name being Subramanian! He also remembered the old days, when he found only divine intervention made him take efforts to rebuild the Madipakkam Shiva temple. So, as a trustee, he said it was the divine call, even though he knew less of history, which got associated with REACH, to rebuild temples.
The highlight of the day was the effortless and eloquent address by Shri. Kalaimamani Dr. R.Nagaswamy.
A doyen in archaeology, the man who brought out more Stone inscriptions, one who restored the Thirumalai Nayak Place in Madurai, the Thiruvannamalai temple to name a few, and the one who is called as “Silai Meetta Semmal” (the man who brought back our statues). The reason for the last adage is that, it was Dr. R.Nagaswamy, arguing in the London court to get back some stolen idols (Shiva puram if the writer remembers correctly). The judge who heard the argument hailed his deep knowledge in the subject and ordered immediate return of the statues to the Indian Government.He said that unless the awareness of retaining the culture comes from within, we couldn’t restore heritage. He quoted an example of a rare vimana, he saw in Kumbakonam, where in the renovators were hells bent on finishing the carved brick made one, with cement. He pleaded with them to leave it as it is, as that would be the rarest of vimana where carving was done on bricks. But the damage was done. He quoted that in Burma, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, Indonesia, Vietnam, Lanka, Singapore and Malaysia, and even in far off Greece, Hindu culture prevailed and was nurtured. He quoted seeing a Coin of Greek King Agathocleus which was some 2700 years old, having the Greece king’s name on one side, but also having Lord Krishna’s image on one side and that of Balarama’s on the other side!
He also condemned the use of cement for patching up between stone inscriptions and walls. This was not needed as well as was spoiling the legibility of the inscriptions.
His PowerPoint presentation showed how he restored the Danish Fort in Tharangambadi, and how the new administrators of the fort had built new buildings near by the old ones. Also a water tank for Tsunami victims was built too close to the ancient Fort site. He said, any vibrations or digging in the vicinity of an ancient site, would damage the heritage building and such acts should be condemned and banned. The main focus was the uncared Masilamani Nathar Temple at Tharangambadi (Tranquebar). In spite of this ancient temple, being a rarest Shiva Temple in seashore, Government apathy and negligence had totally shattered this temple. The bund wall built to protect the nearby Fort also funneled the seawater to throw itself on the temple. Tsunami accelerated the problem and now the whole temple made of granite stone lies shattered. Shabby patch up work done by PWD, not withstanding, he called the experts to join hands in restoring this temple. A representative of Tharangambadi had come to the function and he agreed to the point that a joint committee of experts only can solve and rebuild the temple, and not simple civil departments of the Government
The climax of the day was the powerful PowerPoint of Shri. P.S. Sriraman, the ASI man, from Madras Museum. He was one of the key men who digitized and documented the fresco paintings in the Tanjore Brahadeeswara Temple, during the tenure of Dr.T.Sathyamurthy as the Chief in ASI.
He started the presentation by showing few ruined temples like those seen in Brahmadesam, Brahadesswara Temple in Tanjore as well as in Gangai Konda Cholapuram and the after effect of rebuilding, by using slides “Before” and “After”. This got a round of applause. He meticulously explained what one should not do:
Not to throw away the stones and bricks lying around,
Not to remove idols,
Not to allow plant and creepers grow,
Not to use acrylic paint or cement, etc.
He said using brain one could utilize 90% of the ruin material and re-use them to rebuild the temple. This needs careful planning and sorting of the available materials. He said more of public participation is necessary to restore temples as Government is always short of funds and skilled manpower. He quoted the example of Manjunatha Dharamasthala Temple Renovation Trust, which has a well-planned public-private participation. After identifying a temple, the get drawings and estimation made, get the written agreement of the locals allowing the trust to take over the temple site, visit frequently the site to inspect the work-in-progress and thereby see to that the temple is restored in the right manner with a transparent system prevailing throughout. Now the Karnataka Government had started giving their identified heritage sites to the Dharamasthala Trust for restoration!
He said REACH FOUNDATION is ready to give technical expertise to create plans, drawings, estimates, ideas to renovate the right way; what is needed is the public participation in collecting funds, or materials, use them in the righteous manner to enable the restored heritage temple be good for the next 1000 years!
The programme ended with the national anthem followed by a simple but tasty lunch comprising Sugar Pongal, Sambar Rice, Pappad and Curd Rice.
REACH FOUNDATION is planning to conduct such seminars and symposiums in each district, and create an awareness campaign among rural public. If the might of public support and the skill of these archaeologists join together, we are sure most temples will get restored and a renaissance of our Dharma will soon emerge.
Labels: heritage conservation, temples revival
Sunday, June 03, 2007
Tharangambadi Masilaamani Nathar Temple
Visit on 18th of March, 2007This writer could not continue writing this travelogue, as his mind used to wander back to Tharangambadi and think of the lone Shiva Lingam in the darkest of midnights staring at the sea, with just the shrine around him. We regret the delay in presenting this to all readers. Few weeks before, there was an article in Tamil Daily Dinamani by Mr.Kirungai Sethupathi about this temple, which has been well documented. 
The Tharangambadi Masilaamani Nathar Temple, also called as Kulasekarapattinam in Silappadigaaram, where Kannagi is introduced in this place where the Chettiyars did commerce, is today a non-descript place with the ASI board at the entrance. This Temple built in 1305 A.D by Maravarman Sundara pandya exhibits outstanding architectural skills. This is explained well in this web page.
The Temple is in total ruins, with the stark contrast to the Danish fort which is fully made of mud and lime stone. The Danish Government, the Christian missionaries who are in full force doing there job of spreading their religion around and INTACH (which has bought its own house near the temple spot) are doing their bit in the name of conservation. 
Members Chandrasekaran and Sundhar Athreya were not aware of what was in store. But the sight of the ruins and the waves hitting the only left piece of history, the sanctum sanctorum broke the silence claiming, “Sea ...me, see me!”
The top temple Vimanam, sliced and thrown into the sea talks its own story to tell. 
Whom and what to blame? The tsunami, the care takers of the temple HR and CE, or the poor Hindus who do not have much to contribute to the might of rebuilding the temple..?
Whom and what to blame? The tsunami, the care takers of the temple HR and CE, or the poor Hindus who do not have much to contribute to the might of rebuilding the temple..? When we had informed the villagers well in advance about our intentions of taking note of the situation there and our intention to help them in rebuilding the temple, another flood of people thronged from all walks of life, the fishermen village heads, teachers, artisans, lawyers and Hindu activists..! Name a kind, you could see them there. Before starting our discussion, one member invoked Lord Shiva in a loud and clear voice, singing the Thevaram by ending it with chants of Aum (Om) thrice. When all were silent, the sea waves lashing the shores also synchronized with this Omkaaram! Both sounds merged and created a magical and mystical aura around, as all became more attentive in the progress of the discussion.
Then Sundar Athreya gave a fiery and though provoking speech on why and how we need to work relentlessly on Temple Renovations and understanding our own culture through these living Heritages.
After a lengthy discussion, the villagers requested us to talk to the HR and CE commissioner’s office at Chennai to utilize the funds sanctioned recently in the current Tamil Nadu Budget in the right way, by reclaiming the sand that has been washed away and fill the inundated sea water within the old temple campus ( this is a non-entity now, the temple boundary, as mentioned by few old members is existing only in our memory or in the minds of people who have good imagining powers, by comparing the wall of the adjacent Dutch fort!) with the 50 lakh sanctioned to the HR and CE as well as the 3 crore odd Indian rupees sanctioned for building a bund wall to stop further erosion across the sea, a post-tsunami relief fund also in a transparent way.
REACH foundation is approaching the appropriate Government bodies to discuss these issues and it would be a welcome step if the Government missionary runs hands in hand with the confidence of local people, with the technical help of REACH foundation coming forward, free for them! Of course, some haphazard patch up is going on in the name of renovation, within the temple premises, which none of the people we met, liked. There is also a Government proposal to shift the temple to inner area, which is also not liked by the locals. They wish the Government to speed up the restoration act with the help of technical group like REACH and are willing to cooperate in all means to see the temple get back its sublime glory!
This is one of the few temples in South India on a sea shore, and the second one in whole of India next to Somnath. The villagers wish that this would become the Somnath of South, where bakthas would throng in masses daily and the place become a great tourist attraction for this temple as well as for the Dutch treat (fort) near by.
We also visited the nearby Shiva temple, owned by a private family, being restored by INTACH. There was a beautiful Bhairava Statue as well as another unknown idol. (The writer could not know).
Can experts name and identify that? There was also another Vishnu temple nearby, which at least had a proper temple building, but uncaring people had made it totally unkempt. We requested the villagers to at least clean this temple at the earliest. One member came forward to operate the temple bell here on a daily basis, morning and evening at 6.O’clock.
We bid adieu to all promising to do our best. Before that, we entered the sanctum sanctorum. The Shiva Lingam and its serene look towards the sea had its own eerie effect. The other consorts of the temple are kept safely in a nearby house donated by a kind hearted Brahmin and pujas continue till date. The site of 
Sapthamatrikaas itself talks about the ancientness of this temple. (Sapthamatrikaas were the most ancient form worshipped by Hindus) 
Sapthamatrikaas itself talks about the ancientness of this temple. (Sapthamatrikaas were the most ancient form worshipped by Hindus) 
The name of the Lord and his Devi are sweeter than the serenity around. Masilaamani nathar – meaning Jewel without a blemish and Aram Vazhartha Nayagi – Dharma Rakshambikai in Sanskrit – The Goddess who patronized truth and law – Will the current rulers restore these Gods in their righteous place?
There is this Thevaram sung by Appar,
"Maasil Veenaiyum Maalai Madiyamum
Veesu Thendralum Veengila Venilum
Moosu Vandarai Poigayum Pondradey,
Eeasan Endhai Inayadi Neezhaley!"
( Faultless Veena Hymns, Evening Moon, The cool Breeze, the righteous season, honey bees buzzing around the flowers in the ponds, Oh, Shiva, surrendering your lotus feet makes me feel all these)
We do not know at what context and situation Appar sung this, but believe this should have come from him in this serence surroundings, the sea, the breeze and the silence around the Shiva Lingam.
Also read the Tranquebar Map and Conversions in Tharangambadi
And see how the temple was once upon a time! Here, with the front mandap
Labels: Indian Heritage, Temples
Tuesday, December 26, 2006
Kundrathur Valeeswarar Temple Restoration Work on 16th Dec 2006
It was a destined day for REACH foundation temple_cleaners team to reach Kundrathur Valeeswarar temple on this 16th of December 2006.
As written in my tamil blog, it is so rich in heritage but the most ruined and not in spot light- this small hillock and its surroundings in Kundrathur. As usual, the Samarpanam volunteers turned up as well as another lone volunteer Mr.Danasekaran, all the way from Maraimalainagar who is a member of “Hindu Aalaya Suttham Seyyum Iraipani Mandram” having its office at the ShivaTemple, Vadapalani. I say ‘destined’, because on reaching there, I was not knowing which local guy I would contact, the one who would carry along this task of communicating with us, about the development of the temple work! Lo, came there a passer by, slowing down his bike.
He enquired, “Hey, who’s that? What have you come for?”
I replied, “Just planning to clean the surrounding of the temple and thinking of reconstructing it. I belong to REACH foundation”
“Thank God, He sent you! This was my child hood dream (he must be some where around 40 years) envisioning this temple to be a good one, re-built! What a coincidence! I am just going to arrange for my father’s 80th birthday celebrations, hurrying to call friends, relatives and happened to pass by through this short cut lane, to avoid the longer route! And my name is Chandrasekaran,I work for a nearby factory… and whjat’s your name?”
I replied, “Chandrasekaran”.
He retorted, “No sir, I amnot asking you to repeat mine; I asked your name.”
I again said bit louder,” We both have same name!”
I continued, “By the way. Who else can supervise things here afterwards? I need someone, preferably a senior guy?"
He replied,”It was in my mind. I will call him. He is longing to re-do this temple and was also involved in the construction of the nearby Vishnu temple along with his brother Baskar,” and he rang the other man. He left, giving his numbers, asking to call anytime, for any need.
I thanked him, he left. I turned around, just to receive the other man summoned by Chandrasekaran (local guy)
Me: " Namaskaram. I am happy you came immediately. I am Chandrasekaran from REACH. Shall we start?
He said in a surprised tone, “ I am also Chandrasekaran!!!” C lead C to meet another C!”
I said, "Add one more! Lord C (Shiva) decided to do this way today. So C made C to meet C and C in Kundrathur, to reconstruct His temple!”
As per the history on the stone inscriptions, it says that this temple belongs to the Maruthuva Andhanar (Doctor-Brahmins). Some intercept it as a community who did intercaste marriage, but some claim it as the Brahmins who were medicine- doctors by Profession (like those of Variyaars or Arya Vaidyans from Kerala).
A deaf and dumb volunteer, who now takes care of the make shift temple and the Shiva Linga there along with few neighbours did a fantastic job of cleaning along. We hired 7 locals who actually spoil the temple premises by dumping waste and garbage, by paying them heavily. That would have struck the right-cord! Now, they have promised that they would not misuse the temple land. Though heavily encroached upon, the neighbouring land owner over the side at which the temple front was facing, claimed that he had documents to prove that the land was his since 1800. (I was to ask what about the years before, but controlled my mouth, as I was keen on bargaining some piece of land for fencing around the sanctum sanctorum, at least a 10 feet passage. The elder Chandrasekaran knew him already and took me to bargain with him. He readily agreed!
Then, the speed picked up and by noon 11:30 we were finished with the cleaning.
We all members wound up by visiting the nearby Murugan temple at the hillock as well as the Perumal temple, as it was the Margazhi month. All temples seem to be built during the Kulothunga Chola period. The wooden piece top fascia carving kept aside inside the sanctum sanctorumof the Amma shrine within the Vishnu temple, is a great feast to our eyes.
Now the next step would be to take some civil estimators to get the cost of reconstruction worked out, and who knows… some more Chandrasekarans may join the workJ Keep a watch on this site for updates…
Chandrasekaran
On behalf of REACH Foundation team
Tuesday, December 19, 2006
New blog for REACH Foundation for history and cultural lovers!
We have started another blog ONLY to write articles on the historical, cultural heritage and our glorious past! Articles and photgraphs pertaining to any historical site, informations, travelogues and articles arewelcome!
As usual, the temple visits will be updated here in this blog. Pls do visit http:reachhistory.blogspot.com
R.E.A.C.H Foundation.
As usual, the temple visits will be updated here in this blog. Pls do visit http:reachhistory.blogspot.com
R.E.A.C.H Foundation.
